DESTINATIONS - BANGKOK - CHAO PHRAYA RIVER

Chao Phraya River....a trip

Finding treats and treasures on the Chao Phraya

By Daranan Nitipipatgosol, Ubonwan Pongpat and Nicha Rakpanichmanee
Photographs by Chavarung Tienchutima and Daranan Nitipipatgosol

The Chao Phraya River has been Bangkok’s lifeblood since the city’s humble origins as a port and trading post. Though the days when the river was Bangkok’s main thoroughfare are over, it remains a vital route for shipping and, considering the capital’s world-famous traffic problems, it’s still one of the quickest ways to get around the city.

Thousands of people travel the river every day as they go about their daily business. But if your daily commute doesn’t take you along the Chao Phraya, you may not realise just how much there is to see and do along Bangkok’s historic waterway.

If you’re looking for an inexpensive way to fill some of your summer holiday time, sightseeing by boat offers some of the best views of the city. You can beat the heat by setting out around dusk to watch the setting sun sparkle on the water and illuminate some of Bangkok’s most famous attractions.

FLAG FACTOR

Wat Arun

One of the best places to set out on a boat trip is Sathorn Pier right next to the Saphan Taksin BTS station. Boats that travel the river have different schedules and make different numbers of stops, so keep your eye out for the identifying flags. If you’re not in a hurry, get a boat with no flag (9-13 baht) — they stop at every pier. Orange flagged boats (13 baht) make fewer stops, and a yellow flag lets you know it’s an express boat (18 baht).

CLASSIC BEAUTY

Once you’ve found the right boat, it’s time to see the sights. If you’re in the mood for a bit of culture and want to feel like you’ve stepped onto the set of a classic movie, Wat Arun is the place to go.

To get there, take a boat north, get off at Tha Tien Pier and catch a quick ferry across the river.

Wat Arun’s central prang is one of the most impressive temple structures in all of Thailand and has been featured on promotional materials and websites all over the world. This amount of exposure has made the temple a tourism hot spot, but if you’re willing to brave the crowds, Wat Arun’s majestic beauty is certainly worth the trip. Plan on going early though, it’s only open until 5:30 pm.

HIPSTER PARADISE

Khao San Road

After you’ve paid your respects at the temple, you might be in the mood for something else. If that something else includes bargain shopping and delicious food, head back across the river and north again to Wang Lang Pier.

In the area just around the pier, you’ll find hundreds of vendors offering new and second-hand fashions at reasonable prices. You can lose yourself for hours bargain hunting in the warren of stalls and stands.

If you’re looking for handmade, dek naew merchandise, walk into the soi. Without too much trouble, you’ll find Lang Mai Dek Naew, a new shopping area that just went in a few months ago.

Lang Mai Dek Naew, as the name suggests, is full of hip and cool stuff. Even the vendors in this area are hipsters. If you spot something you like, don’t hesitate. Make sure you snatch it up before someone else does.

BACK ON TRACK

Further up the river you’ll find Phra Ahtit Pier in Banglampu — just a short walk from Bangkok’s infamous backpacker ghetto, Khao San Road.

With all the tourists from around the world, it’s definitely a great place to chill out and people-watch. The flip side is that, because of all the tourists, the prices are a bit high.

Parts of the Banglampu area have become less grungy over the past few years, and more locals are frequenting the trendy new night spots. It’s a good place to party, or to chill out and enjoy the international flavours of the many restaurants that cater to foreigners.

GO GREEN

Wang Lang

Just up the river from Banglampu is Thewet Pier. You’ll recognise it by the hordes of catfish swimming in the river and the regular crowd of people tossing bread to them.

Unlike Khao San Road, this area is low-key. As you leave the pier, you’ll see a street lined with countless plant shops. It’s an enjoyable path to walk through in the summer heat, and even more enjoyable if you’re a plant lover.

Here, you’ll find miniature cactuses, orchids of all sizes and colours, and just about anything green you can imagine.

After making your purchase, don’t forget to ask the friendly vendors for advice on how to take care of your plants. They’ll be more than happy to share their knowledge.

Now that you’ve spent all your energy shopping for greenery, it’s time to recharge with something a little less healthy.

Walk past the last plant shop, turn right at the intersection, and you’ll find one of Bangkok’s best shops for pa-tong-go (fried dough) and sang-ka-yaa (green custard). It’s best to arrive here in the evening when there’s always a freshly fried batch of greasy treasures. For maximum pleasure, order your treats to go and eat them at the pier.

TO THE END

If you find your boat ride too pleasant to cut short, don’t worry. Stay on board until the end of the line, and you’ll arrive at Nonthaburi Pier. Look up to check out the historic Nonthaburi clock tower and the former Provincial Capitol Hall.

In the area around the clock tower, you’ll find more food than you could ever eat — from fresh fruit and Thai snacks to heavy-duty meals. Grab a bag of munchies and stroll your way through the long street of T-shirt stalls. Turn right at the traffic light, and you’ll find even more food at the Nonthaburi Fresh Market.

A full stomach calls for rest, and the last boat back leaves Nonthaburi at around 6:30 pm (7:30 pm on weekdays). Don’t fret if you miss it. You can easily catch a bus, van or taxi back home from there.