Overcrowding is an understatement as 20 or more inmates sleep side by side in small concrete cells with a bare bulb shining all night long. An open shit hole in the corner which all the men use. Originally built to hold a few thousand inmates, it now holds over 8000.

Food consists of one meal a day of red rice in a dirty looking broth devoid of vegetables or meat. If you are lucky there may be a fish head or some other object with the promise of nutrition. Some resort to eating cockroaches, which swarm all over the place.

Punishment is common in Bang Kwang, from a random (and regular) whack with a cane to the wearing of leg shackles (denied by the prison authorities). Beatings are common and are dispensed by guards and prisoners alike. Those poor souls unlucky enough to be put in the hole (Solitary confinement) can spend months at a time in complete darkness.

The hospital isn't much better and those unlucky enough to end up there are usually there to die. TB, HIV, Heptitus, along with disentry, fungal diseases, scabies and a host of other tropical diseases are common and can spread through the prison like wildfire. If you do fall sick (which is extremely likely) you have to pay for the medicine yourself. Most of the poorer inmates simply die.

Some inmates seek temporary sanctuary in drug use. In this country which hands out death sentences for heroin trafficing  like they hand out parking tickets in Australia, drugs are easy to come by. In some cases it is easier to get heroin than it is to get good food!

There are 5 ways to get out of Bang Kwang :
1. By completing your sentence or by the orders of competent authorities.
2. By royal pardon (occasionally).
3. On parole (after two – third of his term of sentence has been served).
4. Over the wall (very rare)
5. Death (less rare)
Reduction of time served depends variably upon good behaviour by classification and the days of working for the public.

When visiting Bang Kwang prison be prepared to face your visitor through a large screen of wire mesh. All the visitors sit on one side, and the inmates on the other. A shouting match ensues as everyone tries to communicate across the distance between them.

Visiting an Inmate:
A prisoner can be an unforgettable and surprisingly moving experience. They're not all angels though. Use your judgement. When dealing with the prison officials, never make demands, neither you nor the prisoners have any rights. Smile, be nice and you'll get further.

Getting There:
Take the northbound river taxi (the long one with the stripe) from Pra Athit Pier to the end of the line in Nonthaburi (Bt6-15). Walk up the road, take the first left and continue to the Visitor Centre on your left. Show your passport and tell them who you want to see. Cross over to the prison. Your belongings are checked then you pass through a gate. You'll be directed to wait at a fenced gallery.

Stuff for Prisoners:
You can buy food and toiletries at the prison shop after your visit and it will be given to your friend. No cigarettes are allowed from outside. Books are welcome.

The Rules:
Long trousers for men. Women should wear 'respectable' clothes. No cameras allowed.

Times:
Bldg #1-3, Mon, Wed; Bldg #4-6, Tues, Thurs. Register by 9am for the 9:30-11:30am slot and by 1:00pm for the 1:30-2:30pm.

You can purchase items for inmates at the prison store. Be careful what you bring. Canned foods are good, as are cigarettes, books and soap.

Letters can be addressed to:
Bang Kwang Central Prison.
117 Nonthaburi Road, Suan Yai, Nonthaburi 11000, Thailand.